Getting the Fit
If you've had Meindl boots from us before, the size will be on the tag inside the cuff of the boot. We may also have your size on file from your last purchase.
Meindl technical boots, category AB through D: size up very consistently, e.g. a sz 10 in a B cat is a size 10 in a D cat.
If selecting category A shoes; people often need a half size smaller than their boots.
The manufactured size of the boots does not change over time.
Peoples feet do change though. Especially from ones late teens through to mid thirties, it is totally normal for the feet to increase in length and splay.
Often you won't notice because your boots are stretching with your feet.
If buying a new set and you are in this age range, consider using method 2 when buying your next pair.
WIDE vs STANDARD guidelines:
Standard width is usually less than about 110mm across the widest point and toe shape is pointy towards the big toe.
Wide fit comes in when total width is more than about 110mm and toes are fuller/squarer and longer, and the big toe is straighter.
Some people know they need wide fit shoes. Others may not realise and have been selecting shoes extra long in order to get more forefoot room.
After you purchase the boots, we will digitally assess your size selection
AFTER YOU CHOOSE AND BUY YOUR BOOTS WE WILL DIGITALLY ASSESS YOUR SIZE TO CONFIRM BEFORE DISPATCH
1 - Choose the right boot for you and your purpose. Consider if you might need a wide or standard fit width. Notes above.
2 - On the product page, select your usual size and checkout the shopping cart.
3 - Now take the pictures shown below. It only takes 5 minutes.
4 - Email the images to us and we will digitally assess your size and width.
5 - If we think we need to adjust your selection we'll communicate with you before we dispatch your shoes.
1 - Smart phone with good camera
2 - A4 or A3 paper preferably. Can even be a utility letter or something like that.
3 - Ruler (any old one will do)
4 - Pen
5 - Thin, dark coloured socks
6 - Hard floor surface that abuts a wall, such as the kitchen.
1 - Measure the paper length and width and write this on a corner.
2 - Place the paper on the hard floor surface. Make sure it's edge touches the wall and is square. Place the ruler on the page pointing out from the wall.
3 - Stand with your back to the wall, place your foot on the page. Ensure your heel is against the wall.
4 - Put some pressure down on the foot. Ensure the toes are splayed out straight, not curled in. Ensure your longest toe is aligned with the centre of the paper.
5 - Take the photo from waist height, holding the phone so that it is directly over the toes.
6 - Check the photo. Make sure it is clear enough to read the mm marks on the ruler.
7 - Repeat for both feet!
1 - Heel contacting wall.
2 - Wall / floor junction showing.
3 - Paper square and contacting wall.
4 - Paper dimensions written on page. Ruler in picture.
5 - Foot aligned with centre line of page.
BOTH FEET !!
Most peoples feet are actually different sizes. Weird but true.
Send us an email with both pictures attached at full resolution, uncompressed.
Both your feet will digitally measured and compared to our database.
- We'll advise if your chosen size needs to be tweaked slightly.
- Sometimes we'll advise that you might want to grab two pairs and select one and return the other.
- Sometimes you might need to swap after trying on. If we do an assessment which is accepted, and you then need an exchange, we'll get the postage costs.
Check the fit
Boots must always be tested indoors on carpet just in case they need to be swapped.
Here are the steps to correctly assess the fit of your new boots:
Sock thickness has a large effect on sizing. Have several thinner and thicker socks available to test with the boots. You can alter the fit dramatically with various sock thicknesses.
We generally recommend wearing fairly thin socks with our boots. Hit the link to learn more.
Get yourself in a comfortable seated position.
1- Open up the laces fully and loosen them right off, slide the foot in.
2- HEEL SET: Now bang the heel down onto the floor shunting the heel fully into the back of the boot. This is the correct start position for the heel.
3- ANKLE SET: Set the angle of the ankle so that the rear inside cuff lightly touches the back of the calf. This puts the ankle/foot at 90 degrees. This is the correct starting angle before lacing up.
4- Close the tongue and guide the storm gusset to sit flat, even and centrally.
Now you are ready to start lace up correctly.
After donning the boot correctly, now lace up correctly using lace locks and tension zones.
1- Leave the forefoot area laced loosely while trying on.
2- Most of our boots Cat B and up will have a locking hook here. Lace across the top of it instead of from the bottom. This creates a lock and separates the forefoot zone.
3- Take the lace to the ankle eyelet (DiGAFix on most our boots). Go around it from below. And draw the tension very firm here. This extra force holds the heel into the rear of the boot.
4- Take the lace to the first shaft hook. Lace across the top of it, instead of from the bottom. This locks the tight tension on the ankle zone and separates it from the shaft zone.
5- Lace up the shaft using medium tension, around the bottom of the hooks.
6- Tie off.
The fit of the boot will be altered dramatically with lacing technique. Hit the link more about lacing techniques.
Walk around the room in them, let them warm up.
Standing on carpet, stub the toe down into the floor.
Feel for how much the foot slides forward.
If it is sliding forward more than a few millimetres, go back a step and re-lace applying more tension at Lacing step 3.
If it slides forward only minimally, feel for the effect of the toe stub on your toes.
a. If the toes do not touch the inside edge of the boot at all, it may be a touch too long or just OK.
b. If the toes just very lightly touch the inside edge of the boot without impact or pain, this is about spot on.
c. If the toes smack the inside of the boot, this is what you will experience in the field, especially on downhills, so they are too short.
You are aiming for result b or a.
Try different amounts of tension on the ankle zone and different socks to customise your fit for length.
- In A and AB category shoes and boots, the width is less critical and the flexible materials will mould easily to the foot.
- C and D category boots are usually tight across the width and toe box in order to supply maximum control and safety on steep terrain.
- B and BC category trekking boots should be snug on width but allow free toe wiggle.
The boot materials should be in contact with the foot and not have free space under the sides of the upper.
Plant the foot, with weight on it and rotate the foot inside the boot. The foot should stay in contact with the boot on the sides.
Flex the shank and ensure the toes do not hit the end and that it remains comfortable.
In general, the foot should feel free to splay outwards naturally whilst having a feeling of containment and security on the sides. It should not feel like it is being squeezed in on the sides unless it is a C or D category boot.
1- To create more width and volume in the boot use:
- a thinner sock, or,
- a thinner footbed.
2- To reduce width and volume in the boot use;
- a thicker footbed or volume spacer under the foot bed, or,
- a thicker sock.
3- If you use podiatrist inserts, try with and without them. You should have a new prescription made by your podiatrist when you get your new boots.
Let us know how you go for sizing!
We love to hear back from you